Urbanoutlaw

Vengence is mine.

52 posts in this topic

For today's fun, I'll tackle the battery box. By the time I got done I was convinced the previous owner was riding

around holding it in his lap. The battery I have was obtained based on the size of the one that came w/ the bike & it

wasn't until after I had it that I found out how small the newer ones are, but this one was $25 as opposed to $80 & up.

Time to get creative.

Here's an approximation of the original location -

01Battery.jpg

Since the frame was converted to a hard tail, the battery now runs into the rear of the frame & would stick out too far.

I decided to relocate it lower & inside the frame. It still sticks out a little but not as bad, just even w/ the primary cover

& just clears the brake linkage & drive chain.

02Battery.jpg

For access the seat & rear fender are removed. Note the voltage regulator (yes, it's the same as an old Chevy truck),

I'll relocate that to the fender & raise it a little. I'll cover that in the next installment when I get into the fender.

03FrameOpen.jpg

This piece was salvaged from the windshield wipers of an old Ford pickup being cut up & made into a trailer. It's just

the right size to raise the box off the frame.

04BatteryBox.jpg

A quick safety note, I've been using cutting wheels on the little grinder a lot lately & this was bound to happen. If

the wheel starts breaking & losing pieces, throw it away. The glasses are self explanatory.

05Glasses01.jpg

Marked & ready to cut.

06BatteryBox.jpg

Parts are ready to use, just 3 of 'em

07BatteryBox.jpg

Ready to start welding.

08BatteryBox.jpg

The shiny parts have been cleaned w/ the grinder to ensure a good weld. My rig would probably do okay but I

figured if I'm going to do it, do it right.

09BatteryBox.jpg

Several quick tac-welds hold everything in place.

10BatteryBox.jpg

More of the "do it right" thing, a quick pass w/ the grinder cleans up the welds nicely. No birdshit here. :thumbsup:

11BatteryBox.jpg

Insert lots of cussing. Some SOB walked off w/ my old Makita drill so it's off to get a new one. This otta' do it.

12NewDrill.jpg

And do it it does! A couple quick holes to bolt the box down....

13BatteryBox.jpg

.... & a couple in the frame to mount everything.

14BatteryBox.jpg

Ready to paint. That silver engine paint I used on the shifter will do nicely.

15ReadyforPaint.jpg

I'm getting a lot of mileage from that truck I'm cutting up, now it's a handy place to hang small parts for painting.

16PaintStand.jpg

While that's drying, I should clean up a little -

17Mess01.jpg

18Mess02.jpg

Took just long enough to dry. The finished part, ready to install.

19ReadytoInstall.jpg

More Allenheads, especially here where there's not enough room for a wrench or socket. Everything clears & it

almost looks factory.

20Installed01.jpg

Most importantly, the battery slips in & out easily (kinda the whole point of this).

21Installed02.jpg

There was a nice chrome battery strap in the box of parts that came w/ the bike, but it's for an even bigger battery,

so I use a heavy duty bungee for now. Aw, the classics. :lol:

22Done.jpg

BTW, my shop now has a name, Outlaw Engineering.

Tune in next time for -

23Next.jpg

Same Bat Time, same Bat Channel.

Edited by Urbanoutlaw

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Here's some more before I call it a day.

When I was doing the battery box I decided to relocate the voltage regulator for more room, here's the original location.

01VoltageRegulator.jpg

The rear fender support used to be an expensive chrome sissy bar until someone chopped it. I'll need the support,

especially if I'm going to have a back seat (This IS to attract women). It's going to get a little work.

02FenderSupport01.jpg

I'm installing blind nuts so I'll only need 1 tool to install the bolts, the nuts will be permanent parts of the sissy bar.

First step is to grind off the old paint & chrome.

03FenderSupport02.jpg

Forgot to take a pic but I'll show you the details in a few pics

Ready to paint...

04FenderSupport03.jpg

... & painted. It's hard to see but there's a little contamination resulting in a wrinkled appearance on a couple spots.

The contamination is probably from grease or oil. For now I'm not worried about that, when I get ready to paint the

bike it'll get sand blasted & proper painting.

05FenderSupport04.jpg

The black bracket is the part that clamps the fender to the frame. It's a poor fit & looks rough so it'll get some work.

06FenderBracket01.jpg

The part ready to paint, same as the fender support.

07FenderBracket02.jpg

Now for the main attraction. Can you say FUBAR? I knew you could.

06Fender.jpg

I think I got this. I never pawn tools (or weapons) so I've amassed a few. Some of my auto body tools.

07BodyTools.jpg

I start w/ cutting a little off the front to clear the battery.

08Fender.jpg

Again I install blind nuts, this time to save getting a wrench between the fender & tires. Short bolts will allow plenty

of clearance from the tire. Here's the details from the pics I forgot earlier.

09Fender.jpg

Nuts welded & dressed w/ grinder. The 2 at the end mount the bottom of the voltage regulator.

10Fender.jpg

Here's some of the tools I'll need for this, a shrinking hammer & dolly. The serrated faces of the tools literally shrink

stretched metal & compress ripples. That's a big issue on this fender.

11Tools.jpg

I start by grinding around the holes to fill & cleaning up burrs. Apparently a drill wasn't handy & someone literally had

punched some of the (many) holes.

12HolePrep.jpg

The trick here is using the lowest amperage possible & w/ a MIG slow the feed rate of the wire. Otherwise you just

burn bigger holes through thin metal. It also helps to "pulse" instead of a continuous bead.

13Welding.jpg

The end result looks a little rough, but the holes are filled.

14Welded.jpg

I'm going to wear out my little grinder by the time this bike's on the road, but now the fender looks a lot better.

15Ground.jpg

Now that the holes are filled & ground, it's time to do a little straightening. Note the marks from the hammer &

dolly from earlier.

16ShrinkMarks.jpg

Multiple layers of different kinds of paint would make a decent paintjob almost impossible so I'm calling it quits

for the day. The fender is ready for proper bodywork.

17ReadyforBodywork.jpg

This means I need to get my compressor & sand blasting kit out of storage & into the shop. I've made a deal for

more space, just have clear it & move in the rest of my tools/equipment.

Later.

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Did a little moving & dug the compressor & sand blaster out of storage. Haven't done anything w/ 'em for 5 years so

I need to get a couple things sorted but I'll be ready shortly.

18SandBlaster.jpg

A quick safety note, sand blasters shoot small bits of grit at high speed so don't point it at yourself (or anyone else).

This thing can take the meat right off you if you get to close & eye protection IS A MUST (preferably a full face shield).

I looked right at mine while I was getting the blaster & forgot it but I have the glasses from all the grinding. You can

see how easily this takes of layers of old paint & leaves nice clean metal.

19InsideFender.jpg

What looked like a blemish in the paint turned out to be a crack in the metal. I think I can fix that. :lol:

20Crack.jpg

It's after 10 PM & I'm out of sand. You can cheat a little & sweep up the used sand, just pick out the large chunks of

debris. I'll be building a blasting cabinet soon but this'll get me by for now. My rig isn't picky.

21Sand.jpg

The underside is done & this is as far as I got on the top.

22OutofSand.jpg

Since I'm quitting for the night I figured I'd shoot a light coat under the fender to prevent rust, (hate doing things twice)

& I wanted to get an idea of how much work it'll take to make this part look good.

23InsideFender02.jpg

Back later w/ more.

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I was actually being sarcastic by the donations, sorry to get your hopes up :P

This is still super awesome. How far off do you think it is from completion?

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It's cool, let's just say I've recently gotten used to being "on my own". :lol:

There isn't a set schedule, I fit this in when I have time. I would like to get up & running so I can still ride this year.

No pics tonight, had dinner w/ my kids & I promised I'd spend time w/ my X-box, later.

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A 700 is a good bike to learn on as long as you have a healthy respect, the minute you don't respect the bike it'll

hurt you. But bikes are great, it becomes as natural as running. Just remember the most important thing about riding -

EVERYONE AROUND YOU IS A COMPLETE RETARD & WILL DO THE STUPIDEST THING AT THE WORST TIME!!!

Keep that in mind & watch for idiots & you should be fine.

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.....Funny how they're both Honda's xD

A matched set.

Not much to add tonight, life blew up in my face & I've got a kid in the hospital so I haven't been at the shop much

this week. I'll have more pics of the fender tomorrow when I finish the bodywork on it.

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Thanks, I want this to be something nice,

I'm going for a classic Shelby paintjob, gloss white w/ the twin blue stripe & a blue frame w/ satin silver details.

If time allows today I'll try to get the rear fender finished tonight, or at least the bodywork.

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Got some time at the shop today so here's some more of the FUBAR fender.

That light coat of black makes a good guide coat, on old auto body trick to show even the smallest blemishes.

24GuideCoat.jpg

I use a scotchbrite pad to rough up the surface so the filler can better grip the part. This is the secret to effectively

using body filler.

25ScotchBrite.jpg

The filler is a thick paste that won't set up until you mix in hardener. It doesn't take much, just run a straight line across

the filler...

26Bondo01.jpg

... & mix until it's an even pale color.

27Bondo02.jpg

Next, spread it on the part in thin even coats.

28Bondo03.jpg

Clean-up is pretty easy, just let it start to harden & it comes right off the plastic tools.

29Spreader.jpg

Same for the palette, just a quick scrape w/ the plastic putty knife & it's gone.

30Bondo04.jpg

Before the filler sets up, a quick pass w/ a clean screwdriver clears any holes you want to keep.

31Bondo05.jpg

The darker areas are places where the sandpaper didn't cut into the filler, low spots that will need a little more.

32Bondo08.jpg

So it gets another this layer...

33Bondo09.jpg

... & out comes the "cheese grader" file for course work.

34Bondo10.jpg

Next I use the body file & 50 grit paper. I also use a block w/ 80 on the edges.

35Bondo11.jpg

I'm making progress, just a couple spots to finish,

37Bondo14.jpg

The filler's done, now it's just finish. Another coat of black, this time several heavy coats.

38Bondo15.jpg

Tomorrow night after the paint has dried, I'll hit this w/ 220 grit on a full size vibrating sander. The paint will fill the

sanding marks from the 50 & 80 grit I've uses so far.

That's it for now & remember, look around you!

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It's been a couple days, mainly because it takes time for paint to properly dry.

Now that the last guide coat's dry it shows the remaining blemishes. they're not that big but they're enough to screw up

a paintjob.

39Bondo.jpg

Another annoyance. This replaces yet another tool that disappeared, a good Craftsman vibrating sander. I'll be lucky

if this one survives the fender & tanks. Loaded w/ 150 grit it'll remove all but the smallest blemishes.

40Bondo.jpg

Now it's ready for primer.

41Bondo.jpg

More drying time required, this time for the primer.

42Bondo.jpg

Back later.

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It's later, I'm back.

The primer's dry & it's time to go after the small blemishes so I hit it w/ another guide coat.

43GuideCoat.jpg

Again the dark spots are the low ones, this time smaller & not worth the trouble of filler. I'll use spot putty here,

intended for thinner applications. No mixing needed & dries fast.

45SpotPutty.jpg

46SpotPutty.jpg

As I said, thinner applications but now the fender's nice & smooth after sanding w/ medium 150 grit.

47SpotPutty.jpg

Electric sander + wet sanding = bad & will probably get you entered into the Darwin awards.

48SpotPutty.jpg

A block w/ 220 wet/dry is next. Results are fairly quick w/ light pressure.

49SpotPutty.jpg

50SpotPutty.jpg

For edges & corners loose the block & use light pressure to form the paper around the part.

51SpotPutty.jpg

Nice thing about the wet/dry, you can clean it w/ water & it lasts longer.

52SpotPutty.jpg

Ready for the last coat of primer.

53SpotPutty.jpg

The primer's dry & we're ready to paint. Yes, I've been doing this w/ spray cans as my paint gear's still buried

in storage.

54Paint.jpg

A quick pass w/ Scotchbrite gives the surface something for the paint to grip.

55Paint.jpg

I was pleasently surprised at the nice gloss the white engine paint had when it dried. I went w/ this figuring if the

paint would look good on an a hot greasy engine it would hold up nicely for this.

56Paint.jpg

After 2 days to dry I layed out the stripes w/ masking tape. The center was free-handed & I made the stripes

1 1/4" wide. Note the light marks to place the outside of the stripes.

57Stripes.jpg

Pull a long piece of tape & follow the guide marks,

58Stripes.jpg

Now that the stripes are laid out I'm ready form more paint.

59Stripes.jpg

One last pass w/ the Scotchbrite.

60Stripes.jpg

Blue stripes are done, just need a day for them to dry.

61Stripes.jpg

Note the sharp angle I'm pulling the tape at. This way it doesn't pull up the edge of the stripe.

62Stripes.jpg

The stripes came out nice.

63Stripes.jpg

Remember the blind fittings I installed earlier? Time to clear them out w/ the thread tap. Just a quick pass in &

out does the job.

64ClearThreads.jpg

Here's the final effect, white base color w/ royal blue stripes & satin silver details. I did the voltage regulator while

I was waiting for filler & paint to set up or dry.

65Done.jpg

Later.

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Totally reminds me of those Harley how-to articles I wasted my time on when I was little. I learned some stuff from it, and it further fueled my fascination with motorcycles. Oh, and feel free to post the howto in my wiki site if you like. I have a personal Wikipedia-style site if you feel like adding some instructional stuff up.

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Whadd'up homey peoples?!?!

Been busy the last few days w/ a couple other projects & helping the landlord on some of his stuff (he's cool so it's no

prob). In the mean time I've got some more pics I got while I was letting paint dry on that fender. Here's our old pal

the voltage regulator!

The original powder coating was pretty rough & the part wasn't prepped right so some of it peeled off w/ just my

thumbnail. The rest was stuck pretty hard. Note the pieces I peeled off in the foreground.

VoltageReg01.jpg

The sandblaster just wasn't doing it, the plastic coat absorbed most of the force so I decided on plan "B". My field

expedient bench grinder in action.

VoltageReg02.jpg

That's more like it, the wire brush made short work. Watch your hands, it'll make short work of them also.

VoltageReg03.jpg

The anodized finish on the base wasn't quite what I wanted so I masked it for painting too.

VoltageReg04.jpg

The satin silver looked just right...

VoltageReg05.jpg

... but the Ford engine blue didn't. I'll fix that in a minute but first I have some other work. The holes for attaching

the wiring were worn so I drilled them to the next size up & tapped for (you guessed it) Allenheads.

VoltageReg06.jpg

I picked up a small tap & die set, including the #8 (cover screws) & #10 (wiring) sizes for the new hardware.

VoltageReg07.jpg

The finished part just didn't look quite right so I decided to go w/ a darker blue than this.

VoltageReg08.jpg

Just something to show the comparison between the 2 colors, see the finished part in the last pic in previous post.

VoltageReg09.jpg

I'm starting to mess w/ the fuel tanks & have some other stuff I'll post as I go.

UO out.

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DidjamissmeI'm BAAAACK!!!

The guy I got the bike from said this was my electrical system.....

01Frame.jpg

Next I pull the sprocket cover to get at the chain. There's no master link, so the chain has to be removed the hard way.

02Frame.jpg

I pull the brake strut & loosen the adjusters (1 each side).

03Frame.jpg

Next is the axle nut. I seem to be missing some hardware, I'll fix that shortly.

04Frame.jpg

Leave the nut on a couple turns & gently tap w/ a mallet (wood or plastic) to pop the axle loose, then remove the nut

& pull the axle out from the other side.

05Frame.jpg

The rear mount for the fuel tanks is handy for lifting the whole bike to get access to the underside.

06Frame.jpg

The other end of the chain is looped under the handlebars & .....

07Frame.jpg

...UP, UP & AWAY! (I love that engine hoist.)

08Frame.jpg

Wow, extra greasy. I go ahead & remove the line from the oil pump & clip the wire from the points to the coil.

09Frame.jpg

These 2 bolts (& the other 2 on the opposite side) held the original rear frame. The hardtail conversion was welded

properly so I'm ditching the bolts. No, that's not a sports drink. It's my industrial degreaser.

10Frame.jpg

Through the magic of photography we skip over the spraying to this point. the underside & most of the rest is

now a nice Royal Blue.

11Frame.jpg

When I'm doing the spine I see an issue, a bad chop. The spine was pieced together from 3 sections. At least

it's straight lengthwise. BTW, Obama Motors has acquired a motorcycle company & is pleased to introduce the

Paperhead.

12Frame.jpg

Anyway, back to painting. I get the spots on top that weren't open while the bike was hanging.

13Frame.jpg

The front motor mount is up next. It was rusty & greasy ( :weird: ).

14Frame.jpg

A quick dip in the parts washer...

15Frame.jpg

... followed buy some sanding...

16Frame.jpg

.... & ready to paint.

17Frame.jpg

There's a clearance issue so I swap out the original nuts for flange nuts.

18Frame.jpg

The mounts attached to the engine. The other bolts are the ones that mount the forward controls.

19Frame.jpg

I had a little overspray, no big ...

20Frame.jpg

... I also have the cure.

21Frame.jpg

One control is painted (the shifter I rebuilt) & one is chrome. One control rod is chrome & one is black, both

look like fubar. Time for more paint.

22Frame.jpg

The shifter came out better than I expected so the brake will get the same treatment. I remove the foot & toe pegs.

23Frame.jpg

The rods were sanded & painted to match the frame, now everything's drying.

24Frame.jpg

The controls, break transfer & battery box reinstalled. they came out nice.

25Frame.jpg

Since the white I used is engine paint, I'm thinking of painting the cylinders & heads the same (currently faded

black). The rocker boxes (worn chrome will probably be satin silver). Eventually I'll strip the bike down & fix all

the little problems w/ the frame, going for show quality, but for now it'll get me on the road & look decent.

I'll be back later w/ more pics of the rear wheel & axle.

Edited by Urbanoutlaw

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BTW- The Allenhead sockets pictured above are tools I've had for longer than most of you've been alive,

about 25 years.

The pic is blurry but it gives you an idea of how the clutch cable hangs out.

ClutchCable01.jpg

I pull the "C" clip holding the clutch handle to the perch. I also loosen the clutch adjustment for slack.

ClutchCable02.jpg

ClutchCable04.jpg

Now the cable hangs loose & I can mount it down.

ClutchCable03.jpg

Quick & easy, hose clamps will hold the cable out of harm's way.

ClutchCable05.jpg

Done w/ that part, gets it done.

ClutchCable06.jpg

It never fails. Closer examination of the perch shows it's....FUBAR!!! The part is made of pot metal & has

2 steel bolts busted off in it. Tough pot metal.

ClutchCable07.jpg

Local parts shop had the same exact part for $25 (for the whole assembly), one of the few actual parts I'll

need to buy for the project.

ClutchCable08.jpg

While I'm at, I picked up more...you guessed it, Allenheads. Enough for both sides (4 each)so they match.

ClutchCable09.jpg

Finished effect.

ClutchCable10.jpg

Tune in next time to learn how to make a thermal nuclear device from duct tape & 3 paper clips.

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Suddenly there's a paperclip shortage...

While paint was drying earlier I handled some other things. I need something to keep the rear break in one

place when I use it & the hardware is missing, Here's an exploded view of what's supposed to be there.

Strut10.jpg

Outlaw Engineering to the rescue. The yellow line represents the part I'll make.

Strut08.jpg

A quickie blueprint of what I want to make.

Strut09.jpg

Note the flat steel bar next to the fender.

Strut01.jpg

I want a rounded end so I use a washer as a template.

Strut02.jpg

The white paint makes it easier to see the marks from my Sharpie.

Strut03.jpg

The guy who owns the building is pretty cool about using his stuff, like the drill press (I use it more

than he does).

Strut04.jpg

Same for the little bench grinder.

Strut06.jpg

All dressed up & ready to go.

Strut07.jpg

I set the flat in place & mark it for length.

Strut11.jpg

The 3/8 bolt I use for the other half needs ground down, represented by the red line.

Strut12.jpg

Strut13.jpg

Ready for the next step.

Strut14.jpg

A 3/8 nut welded to the end of the bolt will serve as an upper mount & adjustment away from frame.

Strut16.jpg

The flat is bent in 2 places to gain clearance from the frame & chain. Any vice works nicely for good results.

Strut17.jpg

My little grinder is still holding in there, quick & easy to cut the flat.

Strut18.jpg

I welded a left over barrel nut from the shifter to tie it all together & allow adjustment for length.

Strut19.jpg

All that's left is a quick stop at my high dollar painting facility....

Strut21.jpg

....& PRESTO! The finished part in place. The tab is threaded for the top bolt

& there's a jamb nut between the tab & the head of the bolt to lock it down.

Strut22.jpg

I'll have more later this week.

Edited by Urbanoutlaw

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Next part, the rod that connects the hub to the brake pedal.

I picked up some 1/4" rod stock for this, placed it so I can mark & cut to length.

BrakeRod01.jpg

BrakeRod03.jpg

The only Vise I have right now is on the drill press, but it works.

BrakeRod04.jpg

A stop at the grinder...

BrakeRod05.jpg

...& it's ready for threading

BrakeRod05.jpg

Originally I welded a nut to the end to attach to the transfer rod.

BrakeRod02.jpg

I want plenty of adjustment so I measure 1 1/2 inches to thread.

BrakeRod07.jpg

My toolbox makes a handy fixture to hold the rod for threading.

BrakeRod08.jpg

One more step finished.

BrakeRod09.jpg

I decided the original plan may or may not be strong enough so I remove the nut & put a bolt on the

end. This should allow for a stronger weld.

BrakeRod10.jpg

Once welded & dressed w/ the grinder I clean up the threads.

BrakeRod11.jpg

This part gets Satin Silver.

BrakeRod13.jpg

Finished & installed.

BrakeRod14.jpg

This just in: Micheal Jackson is valiantly maintaining his fight to remain dead. More on this as it develops.

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Wen you first started this topic, i thought your bike was going to look like the Zombie. Nice bike though, it reminds me of the Hexer or the Angel. But how cime you used old parts? I mean the tyre's, and the chain. The rest looks vicious, but the tyre... No offense was used in this post.

Wen you first started this topic, i thought your bike was going to look like the Zombie. Nice bike though, it reminds me of the Hexer or the Angel. But how come you used old parts? I mean the tyre's, and the chain. The rest looks vicious, but the tyre... No offense was used in this post.

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Until you go out and ride it, they tyre's aren't really that important, and can probably just be jet washed off to get dirt / dust out of the grooves. Chances are if he cleaned them up now, they gather up dust and paint and metal shavings in the shop anyway, back to square one.

Just a guess, but he might replace the chain if he decides to buy a new rear sprocket, but the cost might be a bit steep for a sprocket to fit this bike, so... ¯\(°_o)/¯.

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